by Zoe Grams
Beaches for miles, ancient temperate rainforests and a horizon that stretches for miles: Tofino is undoubtedly one of the most breathtaking places in British Columbia, and worth a trip whether during the bracing winter storm-watching season or balmy summer days when the ocean offers respite from the sun’s heat. Here’s everything you need to know about planning a trip to this awe-inspiring island town. [Photo credit: iStock.com/dan_prat]
It’s not just Tofinno’s bold natural beauty that makes it feel at the edge of the world: it’s the winding road commute, too. Tofino Bus offers shuttles from major B.C. cities, including Vancouver, Victoria and Nanaimo. Visitors who are driving from Vancouver should use BC Ferries’ Horseshoe Bay terminal and – if time allows – break up the journey with a visit to the charming and slightly surreal town of Coombs, where strange wood sculptures are nestled alongside artisanal ice cream shops, and goats live on the roof at the delightful Old Country Market. Journey times are approximately six hours.
For shorter trips and stunning views of the coastline, 90-minute flights are available from South Vancouver and Victoria airports from carriers such as Fly Orca Air, from $190.
During summertime, Bella Pacifica becomes a popular camping spot with a wide range of campsites – from shady wooded group sites to smaller pads overlooking MacKenzie Beach, which is a short walk from anywhere in the grounds and is often so quiet it feels like a private resort.
Nature buffs with less tolerance for shared showers and tarps may want to try Crystal Cove Cabins or Ocean Village Beach Resort instead. Both also overlook MacKenzie Beach but offer amenities such as full kitchens and solid beds.
True luxury can be found in the world-famous Wickaninnish Inn, which stands atop a craggy shoreline whipped by waves – beach on one side, forest on the other. Often described as awe-inspiring, the award-winning hotel is an ideal place for a romantic getaway.
For a small town – albeit a tourist-friendly one – Tofino has an impressively diverse selection of eateries that range from luxury fine dining to quick, hand-held snacks. The critically acclaimed Wolf in the Fog takes inspiration from the forest and ocean surrounding it. High-end, beautifully plated meals earned them first place on enRoute’s Top 10 Best New Restaurants in Canada list in 2014. Since then, their reputation continues to grow. For a more relaxed but just as delicious experience, try Sobo. Open for lunch and dinner, it offers expertly cooked, no-frills meals such as fish, salads and sandwiches. The Spotted Bear Bistro is another local favourite in this category. And no list of where to eat in Tofino would be complete without a nod to Tacofino: the now famous food truck at Surf Junction. These creative and tasty burritos and namesake tacos are worth the queue to savour after a day in the waves.
A visit to Tofino is incomplete without fully immersing yourself nature. Exploring the trails and tides of Pacific Rim National Park is the highlight for many visitors. Boardwalk trails through old-growth forests are dotted throughout the region, many of them short or easy. Longer walks can include the sandy beach strolls along Long Beach, Chesterman’s or Cox Bay.
Looking to get out on the water? Tofino Sea Kayaks rents equipment on an hourly basis and hosts daylong or multi-day tours. There’s no shortage of surf shops that will rent boards and wetsuits – or offer lessons for beginners who are keen to dive into the invigorating waters of the Pacific Ocean. Pacific Surf School, Surf Sister and Tofino Surf School all have good reputations.
For activities on a rainy day, Samantha Flyeris of Tourism Tofino suggests some not-so-wet options. “We like walking the trails in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, many of which are partially sheltered by the forest canopy,” she says. “If the weather is particularly stormy, head to a nearby hotel for some food and drinks, and superb ocean views. The Wickaninnish Inn is the original storm-watching destination and you can lounge and enjoy a snack or meal while the waves roll in. Alternatively, there’s the Great Room at Long Beach Lodge – which has views of Cox Bay Beach – and the Beachfront Bistro at the Best Western Tin Wis Resort. The Ucluelet Aquarium (open March through December) is a catch-and-release facility just down the road, and offers fun for all ages.” Visitors can also wait for a storm to pass by sipping some of the many offerings from Tofino Brewing Company, or be inspired by the art of Roy Henry Vickers at Eagle Aerie Gallery.
Walking through old forests to watch the waves is one of the most restorative activities on the West Coast, and it’s hard to think of a more relaxing experience than being enveloped by the fog of Chesterman Beach. Looking for a winter-appropriate activity that's a little less rustic? Book a day of available pampering at one of Tofino’s highly regarded spas. In the heart of Tofino, Sacred Stone Spa is often cited as one of the town’s best day spas, and offers everything from waxing (less than relaxing) to hot stone massage to aromatherapy. Ancient Cedars Spa at the Wickaninnish Inn offers traditional spa experiences in a luxurious setting, plus regular yoga classes for those looking for a more active way to unwind.
Few locations in the world are a bastion of discovery and adventure at any time of year; even fewer contain as many astonishing vistas as Tofino. It’s a breathtaking place that will remain with you, long after the sand in your shoes has vanished.
